When Real Housewives of Atlanta cast member Shamea Morton shared a traumatic skincare experience resulting in a lawsuit against an Atlanta doctor, her story became more than a cautionary tale for reality TV fans. Her experience was a reminder of how important it is to go into a spa or aesthetician’s office prepared with questions. Before you make that appointment, make sure you have some knowledge of the treatment you’re getting, in terms of necessity, benefits, and potential side effects.
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Advice From an Expert
So how do you know what to ask before sitting down in a treatment chair? How do you know you’re in good hands? We got expert advice from Dr. Aderonke Obayomi, MD, MPH, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at Mount Sinai who specializes in skin of color dermatology and serves on committees within both the American Academy of Dermatology and the Skin of Color Society. Her research has been published in multiple dermatology journals, and her expertise spans everything from acne and psoriasis to chemical peels, dermal fillers, and laser treatments. This is what she wants every consumer to know before booking their next skincare appointment.
Find the Right Expert for Advanced Procedures
If you’re considering anything beyond a basic facial, Dr. Obayomi says your first move should be finding a board-certified dermatologist. “I don’t just mean someone who says they’re ‘certified’ on their website,” she explains. “You want to verify that through the American Academy of Dermatology’s website, where you can actually search for a provider.”
Board certification represents years of focused, specialized training. “Board certification means medical school, then residency training where all you do is eat, breathe, and sleep dermatology,” Dr. Obayomi says.
“This path is a minimum of 12 years of training, including college.” A board-certified dermatologist understands what is happening when a chemical peel or laser treatment is applied to your skin, and most importantly, they know how to manage complications if something goes wrong.
There Are Special Considerations for Melanin-Rich
A thorough consultation before any procedure is essential. A qualified provider should evaluate your skin type, your history, and any existing skin conditions before anything touches your face.
“Melanin-rich skin responds differently to chemical peels, lasers, and even certain topical treatments,” Dr. Obayomi says. “We are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, scarring, and keloids. So, the stakes are higher when something goes wrong.”
According to Shamea Moore’s case, the procedure she received was never the right one for her specific skincare needs. Via People: “The complaint claims that because of Morton’s fungal skin condition, tinea versicolor, she “should never have undergone a chemical peel” and should instead have “been referred to a trained and qualified dermatologist.”
The suit states that the treatment, which took place on March 13, 2024, was “negligently and recklessly applied” by an employee whose license had lapsed in 2019.
“If someone has an active skin condition like a fungal infection or eczema, that needs to be treated first before you even think about doing a peel,” Dr. Obayomi explains. “And the provider should be prepping your skin weeks in advance with medical-grade products to reduce the risk of complications. If someone is ready to jump right into a procedure on the same day without any of that groundwork, that’s a red flag,” she says plainly.
Questions You Should Ask
Dr. Obayomi is emphatic that patients should not be afraid to ask questions. “This is your body, and these are medical procedures,” she says. Before committing to any treatment, she recommends coming prepared with the following questions, to go into the procedure informed:
Are you board certified, and in what specialty?
How many times have you performed this specific procedure on patients with darker skin tones?
What are the potential risks and side effects for my skin type?
What does the pre-treatment and post-treatment plan look like?
And perhaps most importantly: will the doctor be in the room during my procedure, or will someone else be performing it?
Beyond those answers, Dr. Obayomi advises consumers to pay close attention to how a provider responds to your questions in general. “If a provider gets defensive or dismissive when you ask about their experience with Black skin, that tells you everything you need to know. You deserve someone who takes those concerns seriously.”
What To Do If Things Go Wrong
If you’ve had a bad experience, Dr. Obayomi’s first piece of advice is to document everything immediately. Take photos right away and continue documenting in the days that follow. Write down exactly what happened, what was said, and what products or treatments were used if you know them. Then contact the provider’s office in writing to formally report your concerns. If you’ve experienced an injury or complication, get an independent evaluation from a board-certified dermatologist who can assess the damage and guide your recovery.
Dermatologists, Aestheticians or Nurses: Who Is Doing What to Your Skin?
One of the biggest sources of consumer confusion in the spa and skincare world is the blurry line between different types of practitioners. There are many establishments and practitioners offering similar-sounding services with wildly different levels of training behind them. Dr. Obayomi encourages patients to understand those differences. “A board-certified dermatologist completes four years of medical school plus a minimum of four years of specialized residency training focused entirely on skin,” she explains. “That is a very different level of training from an aesthetician or even a nurse, who may have taken a weekend certification course in chemical peels.”
By explaining the differences, Dr. Obayomi is not dismissing the role other skincare professionals can play. When it comes to medical-grade procedures, the line needs to be clear. “When it comes to medium to deep chemical peels, lasers, or anything that penetrates beyond the surface of the skin, that should be performed by or directly supervised by a physician who specializes in skin.” The credentials should be visible, the license verifiable, and exactly who will be performing your procedure should never be a mystery. “There’s a big difference between a relaxing spa facial and a clinical procedure that can cause real harm if it’s not done correctly,” Dr. Obayomi says. “Patients deserve to know which one they’re getting.”
