For many women of color, hair represents culture, identity, and self-expression. Facing hair loss during cancer treatment adds a deeply personal challenge to an already difficult journey. One option that is gaining attention is scalp cooling using cold caps. This technique helps reduce hair loss during chemotherapy, but how does it work for women with textured hair?
Breast cancer survivors Carlin Hafiz, founder and CEO of Th3 Pink Haus, and Amanda Butler, fitness trainer and founder of Cancer Baddies, shared their experiences with scalp cooling and how it can make a difference.
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What Is Scalp Cooling?
Scalp cooling works by lowering the scalp’s temperature to decrease blood flow and reduce the exposure of hair follicles to chemotherapy drugs. There are two types of scalp cooling: automated and manual. Only the computerized systems are approved and reviewed by the FDA. Patients wear a snug cooling cap during chemotherapy sessions. The caps are thick, bulky, and snug-fitting to maintain low temperatures. They must fit tightly to ensure the best results to help reduce hair loss. However, results may vary.
Before considering scalp cooling, discuss it with your healthcare provider to ensure it is appropriate for your specific type of cancer and cancer treatment.
Why Scalp Cooling Matters
Hair is more than just physical for many women, especially those undergoing cancer treatment. Amanda Butler explains, “I was diagnosed with breast cancer at the peak of my fitness career and had grown my career to be on camera. There was no amount of money that I wasn’t willing to spend to be able to try to save this part of my life.”
Carlin Hafiz agrees, adding that it made a huge difference being able to cut her hair on her terms.
She states, “Having this option was liberating to me because I got to decide to sit in that chair and say cut my hair off into this style, not cut my hair off because I’m getting ready to go through chemotherapy.”
Scalp Cooling for Textured Hair
While scalp cooling is effective, women with textured hair face unique challenges. Textured hair, which tends to be denser and tightly coiled, can make achieving a proper cap fit tricky. Carlin emphasized the importance of preparation. “Flat braids or twists were key for me. The day before treatment, I would section my hair and twist it, but I would start the twists mid hairshaft applying light oils and leave-in conditioner.”
Amanda highlighted her workaround: “Initially, when applying the cold cap, none of my scalp was exposed, so I lost a lot of hair after that first round. After that, I twisted my hair into rows so that my scalp was exposed, and that helped so much more, but I had to figure that out on my own.”
Amanda and Carlin attest that applying for the cap can be difficult and tedious. However, this process can vary depending on the company providing the cold caps. You can use the cap on your own or hire a technician through the company to assist with the process.
Amanda, for example, only had help from a technician for the initial visit. She had a family member shadow this process and allowed friends and family to assist with future sessions.
She notes the process was exhausting. “I would start cold capping around 3:00 pm. Then I’d get my first infusion at 4:00 pm, and I wouldn’t stop cold capping until around 10:00 pm. So it was nearly 7 hours of cold capping on chemo days. It is very time intensive.”
On the other hand, Carlin allowed the technician to assist during each session, which can cost anywhere from $500 to $600, not including the cold cap itself. “The technique is very time-consuming. The technician would accompany me to my chemo sessions, along with my husband or children,” she explained. “They changed my cap every 30 minutes and followed me home. They also had to sit with me for hours afterward to switch out my cap at home.” Wearing protective styles such as cornrows or flat twists helped create a smooth base, allowing better contact between the scalp and the cooling cap. Keeping hair moisturized and detangled can help make it easier to manage between sessions.
You Need Access and Resources
Cost can be a barrier, as scalp cooling systems can range from $1,500 to $3,000 per treatment. However, both survivors highlighted the importance of researching grants or financial aid. Carlin and Amanda shared the importance of research, as some organizations and non-profits may offer financial assistance to help cover the cost.
It Requires Emotional Resilience
Both ladies agreed that while scalp cooling isn’t guaranteed to work for everyone, the process can make a difference depending on your goals.
Amanda shared: “I tried cold capping, and at that moment, that was right for me, but I still lost nearly 70 to 80% of my hair. It’s a lottery whether it will work or not. I feel like many cold capping directions are geared toward non-textured hair, so I had to figure out what would work for me, and I still lost a large amount of hair. I would not choose to do it again. It was very exhausting.”
Carlin, however, says she would do the scalp cooling process over again: “I was in control of how I got to cut my hair afterwards. I still had hair. I still felt great, and that was what was important to me. Even though I still experienced hair thinning, it didn’t matter.”
Final Thoughts
Scalp cooling offers an option to preserve hair during a time of immense change, but it’s just one part of the journey. Whether you choose cold capping, rock a bald head, or opt for protective styles, your experience is valid and beautiful. If you’re considering scalp cooling, speak with your doctor, explore resources, and connect with communities like Th3 Pink Haus or Cancer Baddies for guidance and support.
